A History of Powerful Women's Fashion

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Though women have been dressing themselves since the beginning of time, it was only recently that they were able to break away from the strict societal norms set in place by men. From the Victorian era to the onset of the 21st century, women have expressed their freedom and power through clothing. From suffragists to first ladies, this list will show you where your favorite style icons got their start and how they became who they are today.

Clothing through history

Though our surroundings and technology have changed over time, fashion never really has. If you go back in time and look at a woman’s wardrobe during ancient Egypt or Japan or even colonial America, what you’ll see is pretty similar to what women wear today. Clothing serves many purposes other than just looking good: It can keep us warm in winter and cool in summer, signal group membership (think business casual), reduce anxiety (looking sharp increases your sense of power) and send out signals about status. Over time—across continents and civilizations—fashion has played a powerful role in shaping culture. It reveals where we came from while hinting at where we might be going next.

The 1900s - Women struggle for equality

Though women had begun fighting for equality decades before, it was at around 1900 that fashion became a tool for gender expression. Throughout the early 20th century, women took to wearing pantaloons and men’s trousers as symbols of empowerment and revolt. Early feminists like Amelia Bloomer and Elizabeth Smith Miller embraced these trends, even creating designs with trouser suits tailored specifically for women. In 1905, Bloomer published The Lily , an influential magazine that focused on social issues like education, suffrage and dress reform. Three years later, she even designed her own line of clothing intended to be more appropriate for female physical anatomy than standard menswear-inspired garments were.

The 1910s - Dresses get shorter and looser

The trend was inspired by a novel called Three Weeks (aka The Affairs of Anatol) by Lady Muriel (Muriel Spark), about an extramarital affair. This story, which shocked London and Paris, led to a worldwide surge in scandalous dresses—and presumably, extra-marital affairs. The look was loose and flowing around women’s hips; it showed off their legs and exposed décolletage (the area between your neck and chest). Sloppy hemlines were embraced on both sides of the Atlantic: In Paris, dresses became so scandalously short that authorities banned mini-skirts from being worn in public places. Meanwhile, dress reformers in America fought hard to raise hemlines above knee level—but they eventually failed.

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The 1920s - Flappers take flight in slim dresses

For many, flappers will always be synonymous with fringe. And no designer took fringe more seriously than Coco Chanel, who made her now-famous little black dress a signature piece by adding just enough fringe to bring out any woman’s inner dancer. While Chanel was busy bringing modernity to fashion, other designers were taking flight with traditional silhouettes such as sheaths and ball gowns. The 1920s ushered in a time where girls could be girls again—albeit with much shorter hemlines. Women had entered World War I as equals to men, but came home determined to prove they could run their households without relying on any man. New found freedom led women to demand more for themselves and their wardrobes than ever before.

The 1930s - Great Depression, flapper styles continue

The 1930s marked a tough time for women in America. Although women were still working, they often found themselves unemployed during periods of economic recession. In response to these struggles, some women grew their hair out and went without makeup in an effort to look more professional. They also wore very feminine clothing like tight-fitting dresses with long lines and fitted waists to attract attention from their male employers. During World War II, clothing like zoot suits became popular among men who wanted to show off their new wealth through new fashion trends. For example, zoot suiters would often wear knee high boots with extremely baggy slacks that had large cuffs that could be rolled up for decoration or accessorization.

The 1940s - World War II, working women dress more masculine

During World War II, women’s fashion changes dramatically. The lines between masculine and feminine blur: women wore more slacks and shorter hair, while still looking glamorous with red lipstick and bright eyeshadow. Iconic trends included black turtlenecks worn by Katherine Hepburn in her role as Tracy Lord in The Philadelphia Story (1940) and Marlene Dietrich's famous trousers. Strong women like Eleanor Roosevelt and Amelia Earhart wear trousers to emphasize their own power and self-reliance. The late 1940s ushered in a new silhouette for female fashion: hourglass curves became fashionable again as post-war women start families.

The 1950s - Femininity returns with cinched waists and full skirts

Marilyn Monroe, who inspired many a skirt flick, played the ultimate style icon in The Seven Year Itch, which featured her famous scene with a flowing white dress and windy subway grate. Grace Kelly took it up a notch when she married Prince Rainier III, taking on his royal surname while also becoming princess of Monaco—and donning Chanel-inspired ball gowns designed by Parisian couturier Jean Louis. During her time as first lady (1961-1963), Elizabeth Kennedy accentuated her own feminine figure with fitted silk gowns and Peter Pan collars. Plus: The Greatest Dresses Ever Worn by Female Heads of State at State Dinners: Chatelaine Celebrates Canada’s 150th! Pick up your copy today!

The 1960s & 1970s - Political activism drives change

The 1960s and 1970s saw a strong increase in political activism, with leaders such as Malcolm X using clothing to send a message. One of his most famous quotes about style was: You've got to look like you can do something. You've got to look like you mean something. And if you don't look that way, then people are going to treat you in that manner. This quote highlights how important it is for a woman to feel confident when wearing specific clothing, because she will likely be treated accordingly. For example, if a woman wears a tank top while jogging on her local trail at sunset, it may invite onlookers who feel they have an opportunity with her.

1980-present day - Power dressing takes over

What does a powerful woman wear? Dresses, skirts and heels are out; tailored suits, boxy jackets and trousers are in. The 1980s brought us some of the most influential female leaders in history (Margaret Thatcher, Indira Gandhi), which paved the way for women who followed their fashion footsteps—think Hillary Clinton (former US Secretary of State) and Janet Yellen (current chairperson at Federal Reserve). Many strong women working in business or politics preferred masculine-style suits to underline their authority. Simultaneously, pantsuits were giving power dressing a softer edge. Nowadays, look to Michelle Obama as your fashion muse —she rocks feminine-cut suits with feminine details such as ruffles and bows while keeping her hair up and her shoes flat.